Recipes
Carding Brook Farm Recipes by Brooke Dojny.
Brooke is a long-time Farm customer who lives in Sedgwick. She is an award-winning food journalist and cookbook author specializing in food from New England.
Over the years, she has developed a series of seasonal recipes with produce she finds at our Farmstand.
Spring
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Makes 2 cups
Rhubarb, one of the glorious and most reliable harbingers of spring, is an old- fashioned plant that used to be prized for its medicinal as well as culinary purposes. It's tart and acid, qualities that need to be muted by sweetening and cooking, but its flavor is unique and delightful. Bake it into pies or make this quickly cooked chutney, which is a "refrigerator preserve" because, while you could put it through the canning process, it keeps just fine in the refrigerator for at least two weeks. Serve the chutney as a condiment with cold meats, especially ham or pork, or spread on smoked turkey sandwiches.
2 cups sliced rhubarb
1½ cups sugar
1 small onion, chopped
½ cup water
⅓ cup white wine vinegar or cider vinegar
1 tablespoon peeled and minced fresh ginger
2 whole cloves
1 small dried hot red chili or ½ teaspoon dried red pepper flakes
½ teaspoon salt
1. Combine all the ingredients in a wide, deep non-reactive skillet. Bring to a boil over high heat, stirring occasionally. Reduce heat to medium-low and cook uncovered at a slow simmer, stirring occasionally, until most of the liquid evaporates and the sauce is syrupy, about 30 minutes. (Add water if necessary if the mixture looks dry or is in danger of scorching.)
2. Remove the dried chili (if using) and cloves. Cool to room temperature, transfer to jars or plastic containers, and refrigerate.
Crisp radishes are the first root vegetable of spring, and a sure sign of more good things to come. We grow several varieties, and pulling the first crop every year never ceases to be a thrill. Cooked radishes, which are not unlike turnips, can be quite delicious, but more commonly they're eaten raw. Use them in salads, or in one of these lovely hors d'oeuvres.
Radishes with Sweet Butter and Sea Salt
This simple crudity is a specialty of the French countryside, where you can usually get superior sweet (unsalted) butter. If you have a source for fresh local butter this is a wonderful use for it.
Radishes
Sweet butter, softened
Sea salt or coarse salt
Trim radishes, leaving about an inch of stem and cut in half lengthwise, trying for some stem on each half to use as a handle. Serve with a ramekin of butter (which is spread on the cut side of the radish) and salt for sprinkling.
Radish and Chive-Fruit Butter Canapes
Makes 30 to 40 canapes
These canapes require a little effort, but they are simply beautiful - and delicious.
½ stick butter, softened
1 tablespoon apricot preserves
1 tablespoon finely chopped chives
8 to 10 slices thin-sliced bread - whole wheat or white
About 6 radishes, thinly sliced
Chive spears
Salt
Stir together the butter, preserves, and chopped chives. Remove bread crusts and cut each slice into four quarters; spread with chive-fruit butter. Arrange three radish slices on each, top with chive spears, sprinkle with salt, and serve. (Can be made an hour or two ahead, covered with damp paper towels, wrapped in plastic wrap and refrigerated.)
Radish and Melon Salsa
Makes about 1 ½ cups. Spoon a dollop of this colorful and crunchy salsa on crackers that have been spread with soft fresh goat cheese or cream cheese, or serve it atop grilled fish or chicken.
1 cup diced honeydew or cantaloupe melon
½ cup chopped radishes (about 10)
2 scallions, thinly sliced
2 to 3 teaspoons finely chopped jalapenos, fresh or pickled
1 tablespoon lime juice
1 tablespoon olive oil
2 tablespoons chopped cilantro, optional
Salt
In a bowl, stir together all ingredients, seasoning to taste with salt. Set aside at cool room temperature for an hour or so to allow flavors to develop, or cover and refrigerate for up to a day or so.
Makes about 4 servings
Sorrel (which is sometimes called sourgrass) is very tart, with a strong lemony flavor. Its pleasingly sour taste is nicely offset by the richness of cream, and you use this same basic technique whether making sauce or soup. The sorrel sauce is delicious served over rich fish such as salmon, spooned over poached eggs, or tossed with pasta. Sorrel tends to turn brownish when cooked - but if you use the sorrel/spinach combination, the color will stay a truer deep green.
2 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons chopped shallots
4 cups packed coarsely chopped sorrel OR 2 cups sorrel and 2 cups spinach
⅔ cup white wine or chicken broth or a combination
1 cup heavy cream (for sauce) or 2 cups half-and-half (for soup)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1. Melt butter in a large deep saucepan or wide skillet. Add shallots and cook over medium heat for 1 minute. Add greens and wine, raise heat to high, and cook uncovered until the greens wilt, about 3 minutes.
2. Puree in a blender or food processor. Return to the saucepan and stir in cream or half-and-half. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Adjust consistency if necessary by adding a bit more liquid to thin or simmering gently to reduce and thicken.
Makes 2 to 3 main course servings
Fava beans are one of the world's oldest cultivated plants and have been popular for millennia, especially in Italy and around the Mediterranean basin. The thick, soft pods encase pretty lima-size beans—but there is a catch: unless the beans are extremely young and tender they must be blanched and peeled to reveal the tender, buttery, sparking green inner bean. Just like shelling fresh peas, this can be a fun, sit-down social activity. This is a lovely meatless main course stew combining several elements of the spring season.
1½ pounds fava beans in pods (about 1 ¼ cups shelled)
4 tablespoons olive oil
2 garlic scapes or 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 ½ cups diced or sliced red-skinned or Yukon gold potatoes
1 ¾ cups vegetable or chicken broth
1 pound asparagus, trimmed and cut into 2-inch lengths
½ cup shelled fresh peas (or thawed frozen)
1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme ½ cup dry white wine
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
¾ cup fresh bread crumbs
3 tablespoons shredded Parmesan cheese
1. Shell favas by unzipping strings down either side of pods and pulling apart. Push beans out. Blanch beans in a saucepan of boiling water for 3 to 5 minutes (depending on size); drain in a colander and run under cold water. Use a small sharp knife or your thumbnail to peel off tough outer skin. Set shelled beans aside.
2. In large saucepan or deep skillet, heat oil over medium heat. Add garlic and cook 1 minute. Add potato and broth, bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer for 8 minutes. Add asparagus, peas, and thyme and simmer for 4 minutes. Add wine and reserved fava beans and simmer until all vegetables are tender, about 2 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste. (Can be made ahead and reheated.)
3. Toss crumbs over medium heat in a skillet until lightly toasted, about 5 minutes. Off heat, toss with cheese.
4. Serve stew in shallow bowls and sprinkle with toasted crumb topping.
Makes 2 to 3 servings
"Scape" is an old botanical term for a stalk that rises from a root. The hardneck garlic we grow has scapes that ascend through the leaves and then twist into a curl or coil topped by a seed-like bulb. If left to develop naturally, the garlic plant will throw all its energy into the flower, but when the scapes are harvested in full curl they themselves are edible - crisp and delicious, with a milder flavor than head garlic. Try this easy garlic scape pesto pizza, or use the scapes in one of the other ways suggested below.
One 12-inch round pizza dough (homemade, purchased, or use Pain de Famille's rosemary focaccia)
½ cup garlic scape pesto (see below) or good quality store-bought such as Mainstay
About 6 garlic scapes
⅓ cup fresh goat cheese, preferably local
1 to 2 tablespoons olive oil
Sister's salsa, if desired
1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Place dough on baking sheet; spread with pesto, arrange garlic scapes overlapping, dot with goat cheese, and drizzle with oil.
2. Bake in preheated oven until crust browns, cheese softens, and garlic scapes are crispy and tinged with dark brown, 10 to 15 minutes. Cut in wedges, spoon salsa over if desired, and serve.
Garlic Scape Pesto
In a blender, food processor, or mini-processor, pulse together ¾ cup coarsely chopped garlic scapes, ½ cup packed parsley sprigs, ⅓ shredded parmesan cheese, and ⅓ cup pine nuts or other nuts. With motor running, drizzle in ½ cup olive oil and process to make a slightly coarse paste. Season with salt and pepper to taste. This pesto will stay bright green for several days in the refrigerator or can be frozen.
Also try these...
• Brush scapes lightly with oil and grill until blackened on edges.
• Sprinkle with salt and pepper and a dribble of balsamic vinegar.
• Press into the tops of steaks, hamburgers, or meaty fish such as swordfish and grill.
• Add chopped scapes to omelets and frittatas.
• Cut into 2-inch lengths and add to a stir-fry.
• Finely mince and stir into fresh goat cheese or cream cheese.
• Chop and add to any tomato sauce or other pasta sauce
• Use wherever you'd use scallions.
• Add to flower arrangements.
• Wear on the wrist as beautiful fragrant jewelry.
Makes 4 servings.
Yotam Ottolenghi, cookbook author and master of modern Middle Eastern cooking, is the inspiration for this scrumptious rendition of grilled carrots.
1 bunch slender carrots, trimmed (1 pound)
3 tablespoons olive oil
2 teaspoons honey
1½ teaspoons ground cumin
1 garlic clove, grated
½ teaspoon salt and generous grinding of pepper
1½ tablespoons red wine vinegar
Peel carrots. If large, cut lengthwise to make slices no more than about ¾-inch in diameter. Cook carrots in skillet of lightly salted water until just barely tender about 5 minutes. Drain. (Can be done ahead.) Whisk together oil, honey, cumin, garlic, salt, and pepper.
Light a gas or charcoal grill.
Brush carrots on both sides with oil mixture and cook over high heat, until tender and nicely charred, about 5 minutes per side.
Arrange on a platter and drizzle with the vinegar. Serve warm or at room temperature.
Note: Carding Brook’s lovely multi-colored carrots are the perfect choice here.
Makes about 1 pint.
Japanese turnips (also called Hakurei turnips) are small, smooth, and round. They’re crisp and have a pleasant bite when raw, creamy and smooth when cooked, and make a terrific pickle.
1 bunch trimmed Japanese turnips (about 12 ounces) 1 teaspoon salt
½ cup rice wine vinegar
1 teaspoon sugar
2 thin slices ginger
Slice turnips thinly and toss with the salt in a bowl. Let sit until liquid accumulates at the bottom of the bowl, about 30 minutes. Drain in a sieve and blot on paper towels to remove excess salt.
In a small saucepan, bring vinegar, sugar, and ginger to a boil. Pour over turnips, and stir to combine. Transfer to a jar or plastic container and refrigerate for at least an hour before serving. Pickles will keep for about a week.
Note: Turnip greens are also edible and delicious. Add to a green salad or saute in a bit of olive oil along with turnips.
Makes 3-4 servings.
1 large or two small lemons
2 garlic cloves, crushed
1 pound broccolini
3 tablespoons olive oil
Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper
2 tablespoons grated Parmesan
Heat oven to 425 degrees. Thinly slice half the lemon(s), remove seeds, and set the unsliced lemon(s) aside. On two large rimmed baking sheets, toss broccolini, lemon slices, and garlic with the olive oil and spread out into a single layer on the baking sheets. Season with salt and pepper and sprinkle with Parmesan.
Roast until broccolini stems are bright green and florets are starting to char around the edges, 9-12 minutes.
Remove from oven, smash cooked garlic if desired, and incorporate into vegetables. Squeeze juice from remaining lemon(s) over, toss, and serve hot or at room temperature.
Note: If you cannot get broccolini, use broccoli, slicing lengthwise through florets and stems.
Makes 4-6 servings as a snack or hors d’oeuvre.
1 bunch kale, any type (about 1 pound)
3 tablespoons olive oil
2 garlic cloves, grated
Coarse salt, to taste
Preheat oven to 450 degrees.
Rinse kale leaves, dry well, and cut out any large stems. Stack leaves, roll together, and slice crosswise into strips about ½-inch wide.
Transfer kale to 1 or 2 large baking sheets, drizzle with oil, add garlic and salt to taste, and toss to combine. Spread out into a more or less even layer, using a second baking sheet if need be. (If leaves are too deep they will steam instead of crisping.)
Bake, tossing with tongs once, for 5-8minutes, until crispy but not burned.
Sprinkle with more salt, and serve.
Note: The kale is also delicious topped with poached eggs for breakfast or brunch.
Summer
Makes 2 to 3 cups
We include baby leaves of some of the more sturdy greens - kale, turnip, mustard, chard - in our mesclun mix, but we also let some of these grow to maturity, allowing their full, assertive, pleasantly bitter flavor to develop. We've found lately that chefs love working with these cooked greens, often using them as a base for grilled fish or meat. This simple blanching method tames and tenderizes, without leaching out their potent flavor.
1 to 2 pounds kale or other sturdy greens, very tough stems removed and coarsely chopped (very large mature leaves are denser, and will produce a larger yield when cooked)
Salt
1. Bring about 2 quarts of water to a boil in a large pot or wide, deep saute pan. Salt the water and add the greens, turning with tongs until all are wilted. Cook uncovered over medium-high heat until greens are just tender, 5 to 15 minutes, depending on maturity of greens.
2. Drain into a colander, press out excess water, and chop more finely if desired. Serve immediately with butter or olive oil and salt and pepper, or proceed with one of the following variations.
Sauteed Greens with Garlic and Pepper Flakes
Heat 1 to 2 tablespoons olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add a minced garlic clove and a pinch (large or small depending on how hot you like things) of dried red pepper flakes and cook for 1 minute. Add the blanched greens and ½ cup chicken broth, bring to a boil, reduce heat to medium, and cook uncovered until most of the broth is absorbed and greens are tender and juicy, about 5 minutes. Serve with lemon wedges.
Greens with Bacon and Vinegar
Coarsely chop 2 slices of bacon and fry in a large skillet over medium-low heat until crisp, about 8 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels, leaving drippings in pan. Add enough vegetable oil to the drippings to make about 2 tablespoons. Add half a medium onion, chopped, and cook over medium-high heat until lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Add blanched greens and ½ cup chicken broth, bring to a boil, reduce heat to medium, and cook uncovered until most of the broth is absorbed and greens are tender and juicy, about 5 minutes. Sprinkle with 1 tablespoon cider vinegar and the bacon bits and serve.
Makes about 1 cup
The tomatillo - sometimes confusingly called a green tomato but only distantly related to the tomato - is a sprightly, tart, citrusy- tasting fruit popular in Mexico and South America and used as the base for many of their delicious "sauce verdes." Somewhat surprisingly, we've had great luck growing tomatillos here in Maine. The hard green fruits are encased in Japanese lantem-like husks which must be peeled off before using. Thin slices of raw tomatillo can be delightful used in moderation - layered on a sandwich, or as a garnish, say - but brief cooking softens the fruits so they can be pureed into a lovely sauce. Serve this salsa as an hors d'oeuvre with tortilla chips, spoon it over grilled fish, or use as an enhancement for any and all Tex-Mex dishes including tacos, enchiladas, or huevos rancheros.
1 pound tomatillos, husked and rinsed
1 to 2 jalapeno peppers, halved
2 garlic cloves, unpeeled
1 tablespoon light olive oil Salt
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
½ teaspoon sugar
3 tablespoons chopped cilantro
1. Preheat oven to 450 degrees. On a large rimmed baking sheet, combine tomatillos, peppers, and garlic. Drizzle with oil, sprinkle with salt, and toss to coat. Roast, stirring once or twice, until skins are slightly blackened and tomatoes have started to collapse, 10 to 15 minutes. (Alternatively, combine in a grill basket and roast over a hot grill, shaking occasionally.)
2. When cool enough to handle, pull off jalapeno stems and scrape out seeds; peel garlic. Scrape into a food processor or blender (including roasting juices and any blackened bits on bottom of pan), add lime juice and sugar, and pulse to a coarse, textured puree. Stir in cilantro and season with more salt if necessary. Set aside for at least 30 minutes to allow flavors to blend or refrigerate for up to two days. Salsa will thicken as it cools, so thin with water if necessary to make a spoonable consistency.
Makes 4 servings
As anyone with a garden knows, summer squash does well here in Maine and is a very rewarding crop to grow - which is one reason we have such fun with some of the newer hybrids - pure yellow and yellow striped zucchini, different varieties of the pretty scalloped patty pan, and, of course, the sweet yellow crookneck squash. For the first of the season very baby squash with blossoms still attached, we like to leave them whole and simply steam them and drizzle with butter, salt, and pepper. When the squash is larger, try this Greek-style saute - or fry up a few of the delicate, crunchy blossoms as a special once-a-season treat.
About 1 ½ pounds small to medium zucchini and/or yellow crookneck squash with blossoms
2 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 spring onion, including greens, chopped
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon honey
½ cup crumbled feta
3 to 4 tablespoons torn mint leaves
1. Remove blossoms, cut into ½-inch crosswise rings, and set aside. Cut squash into ¼-inch slices. Heat butter and oil in a very large skillet over high heat. Add squash and onion, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring occasionally, until squash is crisp-tender and begins to brown, about 10 minutes. Stir in honey.
2. Sprinkle with feta, squash blossoms, and mint, cover pan, and cook without stirring until cheese begins to soften and melt, about 1 minute.
Blossoms Fried in Herbed Batter
Rinse about 12 squash blossoms (inspecting to remove any insects) and set upside down, umbrella-like, on a paper towel to drain. In a bowl, whisk together ⅓ cup flour and ¼ teaspoon salt. Whisk in ⅓ cup water and 1 tablespoon minced basil, thyme, chives, or sage, to make a light batter. In a large deep skillet, heat about 1 inch of vegetable oil to 350 degrees. Dip blossoms in batter, letting excess drip off, and fry in hot oil, 3 or 4 at a time, turning once, until golden, about 1 minute. Drain on paper towels, sprinkle with salt (fleur de sel is wonderful here), and serve. Eat with fingers.
Makes about 6 cups
Leeks are another member of the allium family, but unlike some onion crops, leeks are never served raw. When leeks are cooked, their somewhat fibrous layers soften to a melting tenderness and the flavor mellows and deepens. Many farmers wait until leeks have grown to an imposing size before harvesting; we prefer to offer this slender, more delicate vegetable. Use only the white and pale green leaves and be sure to rinse thoroughly, as dirt can penetrate the green stalks.
2 tablespoons butter
3 cups sliced leeks, white and pale green parts only (6 to 8 slender leeks)
3 cups peeled and diced potatoes
4 cups chicken broth
1 to 1 ½ cups milk or half-and-half, or about ½ cup plain yogurt
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
3 to 4 tablespoons snipped fresh herbs - chives, basil, thyme, or a combination
1. In a large heavy pot, melt butter. Add leeks and cook over medium heat until beginning to soften but not brown, about 5 minutes. Add potatoes and broth, bring to a boil, reduce heat to low and cook, covered, until potatoes are very soft, 15 to 20 minutes.
2. Puree in a blender, food processor, or with an immersion blender and return to the saucepan. Whisk in milk, cream, or yogurt, season with salt and pepper, and reheat gently. Or chill soup and serve cold, thinning with additional liquid if needed. Sprinkle each serving with herbs.
Salad of Grilled Leeks, Tuna, and Tomatoes on Mesculn
Prepare a medium-hot to hot grill. Trim slender leeks of tough greens and split lengthwise. Slice 2 large firm (semi-ripe is fine) tomatoes ¾-inch thick. Have ready four 1-inch thick tuna steaks. Drizzle fish and vegetables with good olive oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Place tuna in hottest part of grill and surround with vegetables. Grill tuna about 4 minutes per side for medium- rare; grill leeks and tomatoes until charred and softened, about 10 minutes. Arrange bed of greens on platter or plates, place tuna, leeks, and tomatoes on top, and drizzle with a good homemade vinaigrette. Serve with polenta or crusty bread.
Note: If leeks are not young and slender, blanch for a few minutes before grilling.
Makes 6 to 8 servings
Reprinted from "Dishing Up Maine," Storey Publishing (2006), by Brooke Dojny.
Like many farmers, Jon Ellsworth and Jen Schroth have been doing more and more experimenting with tomato varieties that do well in Maine, and now they are growing more than thirty heirloom varieties with such descriptive names as Green Zebra, Purple Cherokee, and Ruby Gold. Mostly, we simply eat these beauties raw in an almost infinite variety of salads, sandwiches, and salsas, but this delicious garlic crumbed "scallop" is a wonderful way of dishing up tomatoes in a lightly cooked state.
4 cups fresh breadcrumbs (see Note)
2 tablespoons chopped parsley
2 tablespoons chopped oregano or marjoram
1 large garlic clove, minced
½ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
4 tablespoons melted butter
6 to 7 large ripe tomatoes (any type), cored and sliced about ½-inch thick
1. Preheat oven to 375 degrees. In a bowl, combine crumbs, parsley, oregano, garlic, salt, and pepper. Drizzle with melted butter and toss. Spread half the crumbs in the bottom of a shallow
2-quart (such as a 9- by 11-inch) baking dish and press down firmly to make an even layer. Bake in preheated oven until golden, about 10 minutes. (Can be prepared up to 3 hours ahead and held, loosely covered, at cool room temp.)
2. Arrange a layer of sliced tomatoes over crust and sprinkle with more crumbs. Repeat until all tomatoes are used, ending with a layer of crumbs.
3. Bake casserole in preheated oven uncovered until tomatoes just begin to soften and juices begin to run and crumbs are golden, about 20 minutes.
Note: Tear about 5 slices good-quality bread into pieces and whir in food processor to make crumbs.
Makes 2 servings
Shell beans (sometimes generically called cranberry beans) are legumes that are popped out of their pods to be cooked fresh, not dried. We love beans of all kinds, and really enjoy growing a couple of heirloom varieties of "shellies" (an old-fashioned Southern term for shelling beans) every summer. Shell beans have become something of an endangered species in the mainstream market, but have lately been discovered by chefs, who prize them partly because of their rarity and seasonality, but also for their gentle texture and sweet, herbaceous flavor. To shell, start with the underside of the pod and break in with a thumb nail. The beans can simply be'cooked in boiling salted water and dressed with olive oil and lemon juice - or create a main course by simmering them into this Mediterranean-style soup topped with crunchy crostini.
1 pound shell beans in their pods
4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided
2 slices peasant bread
2 to 3 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1¾ cups (1 can) chicken broth
2 sage sprigs
1 cup seeded diced tomatoes
4 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley
1 tablespoon chopped sage
1. Shell the beans. You should have about 1¼ cups.
2. In a large saucepan or deep skillet, heat 2 tablespoons of the oil. Tear bread into rough 1-inch pieces, add to oil and cook over medium heat, stirring once or twice, until toasted and browned, 4 to 5 minutes. Remove crostini to a bowl; do not wash the pot.
3. Add remaining oil to pot. Add garlic and cook over medium heat for 1 minute. Add broth, shelled beans, and sage sprigs. Bring to a boil, reduce heat to low, and cook, covered, until beans are tender, 30 to 45 minutes, depending on size and age. Add tomatoes and simmer for 5 more minutes. (May be made ahead to this point.)
4. Reheat gently. Stir in parsley and sage, add a grinding of black pepper, and taste for salt, adding if necessary. Serve in shallow bowls with crostini floated on top.
Makes 4 servings
Beets are another vegetable that has been "rediscovered" in recent years. While beets can be boiled or steamed, this oven-roasting method sweetens and concentrates their flavor. Once baked, they retain their freshness for several days, so be sure to cook extra.
8 small or 4 medium-sized beets, rinsed and trimmed, leaving about 1 inch of stems
2 to 3 ounces goat cheese - plain or herbed
⅓ cup coarsely chopped walnuts, lightly toasted in a skillet until fragrant and one shade darker
4 small handfuls mesclun greens
Sweet Lemon Vinaigrette
3 tablespoons red wine vinegar
1 tablespoon lemon juice
½ teaspoon grated lemon zest
1 shallot, minced
1 teaspoon sugar
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
½ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh thyme
1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Place beets on a double thickness of foil and wrap loosely. Roast for 1 to 1¼ hours (depending on size), until tender when pierced. When cool enough to handle, trim stems and slip off skins. Slice into ¼-inch-thick rounds and refrigerate. (Can be made a day or so ahead.)
2. Meanwhile make sweet lemon vinaigrette by stirring all ingredients together in a covered container.
3. Preheat broiler. If goat cheese is in a log, slice into ¾- inch-thick rounds. If not, shape 1½-tablespoon portions of cheese into rough rounds. Place on oiled baking sheet.
4. Broil, about 6 inches from element, until cheese begins to melt, watching carefully. (Softer cheese may spread a bit on baking sheet. That's okay.)
5. Divide mesclun among four plates, arrange beets over, and drizzle with vinaigrette. Use a spatula to remove cheese and place atop beets. Scatter with walnuts, drizzle with a bit more vinaigrette, and serve.
Makes about 2 cups
From The New England Cookbook, Harvard Common Press (1999), by Brooke Dojny.
By the side of New England roads and in the overgrown meadows of colonial home sites grow twisted, half-dead apple trees. Their fruit litters the ground in the fall, most of it undersized and scarred with rotted spots and insect borings. Often, though, these funny-looking, blemished apples have an intensity of spicy, winey, musky flavor that recalls an ancient, collective taste memory. One recent afternoon, I collected upwards of a dozen different no-name varieties of windfall apples on Carter Point Road in Sedgwick, Maine, and made this splendid sauce from the fruit. Taste each apple type as you go along and don't bother gathering those that are lacking in flavor or that hit you with a mouth-puckering astringency which means they're very high in tannin. Sweetening needs to be according to taste - or depends on the ultimate use of the applesauce.
About 2 pounds windfall apples OR a combination of windfalls and orchard apples, preferably a sweet variety such as Golden Delicious, Macs, Ida Reds, etc.
Pinch of salt
Sugar
1. Rinse apples and cut in quarters. (See Note.) Combine with salt in a large saucepan. Add water just until it shows around the fruit. Bring to a boil, reduce heat to medium-low, and cook, covered, stirring now and then, until apples are quite soft, 20 to 30 minutes. Watch level of water and add more if necessary to prevent scorching.
2. Place a large medium-mesh strainer over a bowl. Dump apples into strainer and use a wooden spoon or pestle to force pulp through strainer. Or, strain and puree apples through a food mill.
3. While applesauce is still warm, sweeten to taste with sugar. I begin with about 1/4 cup sugar for 2 cups sauce.
Variations:
• For a dessert, sweeten more heavily and serve warm with cream if desired.
• If you like a spicy applesauce, add pinches of cinnamon anchor nutmeg.
• For a richer dessert sauce, stir in about a tablespoon of butter along with ¼ teaspoon grated lemon zest.
• As a relish to serve with meats, stir in about 1 tablespoon grated fresh (preferably) or prepared horseradish.
• Or, cook apples with about ¼ cup cranberries, add a big pinch of powdered ginger and about 2 teaspoons red wine vinegar.
Note: Or, you can peel & core apples before cooking and then simply beat pulp with a wooden spoon to puree. Windfalls are usually so small and hard that I find it's easier to cook them without peeling.
Makes 2-3 servings.
These are the classic vichyssoise ingredients, but I like to leave the soup chunky, rather than pureeing it.
3 tablespoons butter
3 cups sliced leeks, white and pale green parts only (see Note)
3 cups partially peeled and diced all-purpose potatoes
3 cups chicken broth
1½ cups half-and-half
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
½ cup coarsely chopped soft herbs, such as chives, thyme, basil, tarragon
Melt butter in a large pot. Add leeks and cook over medium heat until beginning to soften, about 5 minutes. Add potatoes and broth, bring to a boil, reduce to a simmer, and cook until potatoes are tender, about 15 minutes. Whisk in half-and-half, season with salt and pepper to taste, and stir in herbs. If you like a somewhat thicker soup, mash some of the potatoes against the side of the pot.
Note: Rinse leeks well under cold running before slicing. About ¼ cup diced sausage such as kielbasa, linguica, or chourico makes a great addition, as does a cup or two of slivered greens.
Makes about 4 servings as an appetizer with chips.
Peak-season Carding Brook produce combine to make this superb salsa. Serve it with tortilla chips or spoon over grilled chicken or fish.
4 large ripe but firm tomatoes, any color
½ cup chopped sweet onion
½ cup finely chopped green pepper, optional 1-2 small hot peppers, seeded and finely chopped
Juice of 1 small lime
1 teaspoon kosher salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
½ cup coarsely chopped cilantro
Halve tomatoes crosswise, squeeze out some seeds and juice, and chop with a sharp knife - serrated works well. Combine in a bowl with onion, green pepper, hot pepper, lime juice, salt, and pepper. Set aside at room temperature for at least one hour to allow juices to run. Drain off excess liquid (drink it or save for another use), stir in cilantro, and serve.
Note: Look for ripe but firm tomatoes to make a meatier salsa. Adjust the hot peppers to your taste.
Makes about 4 servings.
Carding Brook’s astoundingly delicious fresh ginger, plus their winter squash and stellar Nicola potatoes, are the inspiration for this gorgeous, velvety soup.
4 tablespoons butter
1 large onion, coarsely chopped
3 tablespoons grated fresh ginger, plus 1 tablespoon
2½ - 3 pounds butternut squash, peeled, seeded, and cut in cubes (about 5 cups)
½ pound all-purpose potatoes, peeled and cubed (2 — 3 cups)
1 large carrot, peeled and thinly sliced
6-8 cups vegetable or chicken broth Salt and freshly ground black pepper
¾ cup plain yogurt
Melt butter over medium heat, add onion, and cook for about 5 minutes until beginning to soften. Add ginger and stir for 1 minute. Add 6 cups broth, along with squash, potatoes, and carrot, bring to a boil, reduce heat, and simmer until all vegetables are very tender, about 20 minutes. When cooled somewhat, puree with immersion blender or in a blender or food processor, in batches if necessary, until smooth. Thin with additional broth or water to desired consistency. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
Stir remaining tablespoon ginger into yogurt. Ladle soup into bowls and pass yogurt for spooning on top.
Note: Any type of winter squash can substitute here, but butternut is easiest to peel.
Serves about 4 as an appetizer.
We first tasted this simple and scrumptious appetizer at San Francisco’s Mama Lupo’s restaurant in the 1970s, and have been recreating it in several family kitchens ever since. The amounts of oil in the recipe are approximate.
4-5 medium zucchini
½ cup vegetable oil for sauteing, more as needed
½ cup good olive oil, more as needed
¼ cup red wine vinegar, more as needed
¾ teaspoon dried oregano
¾ teaspoon salt salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 skinny baguette, sliced, slices cut in half
Trim zucchini and slice thinly. Try for less than ¼-inch thick. In a wide shallow skillet, heat the vegetable oil over medium heat. Fry zucchini in a single layer, until rich dark brown on one side. Turn with tongs and fry until dark on second side.
Meanwhile, combine olive oil, vinegar, oregano, salt, and pepper in a large bowl. As squash browns, transfer to bowl with vinaigrette. Repeat until all squash is cooked, adding more vegetable oil to pan as needed. Now taste zucchini and dressing. You will probably need to add more olive oil, vinegar, salt, and pepper to make a well-seasoned appetizer, with plenty of dressing to moisten bread.
Serve at room temperature, asking guests to fork pieces of zucchini onto bread and add some dressing.
Makes 4-6 servings.
After years of tinkering, I have settled on this as the ideal creamy coleslaw formula. It may seem like a lot of sugar, but coleslaw needs sweetness to counter the bitterness of the cabbage.
½ medium head green or red cabbage
1 carrot, peeled
3 tablespoons minced sweet onion
½ cup mayonnaise
¼ cup cider or distilled white vinegar
3 tablespoons granulated sugar
½ teaspoon dry mustard
½ teaspoon salt, or to taste
Slice cabbage into shreds using a large sharp knife, or shred in a food processor. (About 7 cups.) Grate carrot on large holes of a box grater or in the food processor. Toss cabbage, carrot, and onion together in a large bowl.
Whisk mayonnaise with vinegar, sugar, mustard, and salt. Pour dressing over cabbage mixture and stir to combine. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours or for up to 8 hours. Before serving, pour off excess liquid that has accumulated and stir well.
Makes about 4 servings.
This recipe is an adaptation of a Silver Palate classic. The chunks of soft cheese melt gently into the sauce.
6 large ripe tomatoes, seeded and cut into ½-inch dice
8 ounces Brie or other soft-ripened cheese, cut into rough ¾-inch pieces, including rind
¾ cup basil leaves, tom into pieces
½ cup extra-virgin olive oil
2-3 teaspoons drained capers
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 pound penne or other stubby pasta
Parmesan cheese for sprinkling
In a large bowl, combine tomatoes, cheese, basil, olive oil, capers, ¾ teaspoon coarse salt, and freshly ground black pepper. Cover and set aside at room temperature for at least 2 hours to allow juices to run. Bring a large pot of water to a boil, salt generously, and cook pasta until al dente, about 8 minutes. Scoop out about ½ cup of cooking water. Drain pasta.
Combine hot pasta with tomato sauce, adding a bit of cooking water to loosen if necessary. Taste and adjust seasonings if necessary. Serve immediately, passing Parmesan at the table.
Notes: Use any color tomatoes. Cambozola (soft cow’s milk cheese combined with gorgonzola) is wonderful here. Other pasta options are gemelli, fusilli, farfalle, or orecchiete.
Illustrations by Holly Meade.
For more recipes like these: Brooke Dojny has written several regional cookbooks—notably The New England Cookbook, The New England Clam Shack Cookbook, Dishing Up Maine, New England Home Cooking, and Lobster!—and co-authored other cookbooks not focussed on New England cuisine.